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3rd Arrondisement


In the 3rd and 4th arrondissement, you can find Le Marais, which is one of the most densely packed, hip and bustling quarters in Paris. In recent years, a profusion of trendy businesses, shops and art establishments have begun spreading upwards from the Marais’ original epicenter around the crossstreets of Rue des Francs-Bourgeois and Rue Vieille du Temple, to the upper reaches of the Marais, near Rue de Bretagne and the Carreau du Temple.

A stroll through this cutting‐edge neighborhood, now called the Haut Marais (Upper Marais) will provide visitors with a wonderful sample of the contemporary art world’s most exciting artists. In addition to some of the city’s best galleries, this area is also home to many innovative clothing and design shops. All of this part is located in the 3rd arrondissement.

Wandering these charming streets is a fabulous way to spend an afternoon in Paris.

Begin your tour at the Temple metro station and head south (away from Place de la République) down Rue du Temple, and make a left onto Rue du Petit Thouars. Be sure to pop into the Librairie Ofr, one the trendiest art and design bookshops in town.

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Down the street (Rue du Petit Thouars) on your right, you will see the Carreau du Temple, a former covered market that is currently under renovation – unfortunately it’s currently closed for renovations. Right next to the Carreau’s enormous brick and glass structure you’ll notice a lovely little square. In summer, the restaurants lining the square pull their tables into the center, offering Parisians a taste of what vintage, convivial village life must have been like.

Walk past the Carreau du Temple and make a right onto Rue de Picardie and then a left onto Rue de Bretagne. This stretch of Rue de Bretagne has become one of the premier food streets in Paris. Packed with amazing purveyors: cheese shops, butchers, and greengrocers, the street is anchored by the absolutely charming open‐air market: Marché des Enfants des Rouges, an oasis in the center of town, filled with flowers, fruit and restaurants with outdoor seating. It’s a lovely respite from the hustle and bustle.

Continue along Rue de Bretagne and you’ll come across the Rue de Saintonge and the Rue Charlot. If you’re looking for unique, underground designers, a stroll up and down the length of both of these streets is a must! We also recommend a visit down neighbouring Rue de Poitou; the section between rue Charlot and Rue Vieille du Temple is also filled with fabulous finds! Nearby on Rue du Turenne you’ll find Andrea Crews – her boutique spells style “g‐r‐e‐e‐n”. Andrea Crews is akin to high octane American Apparel, reinterpreting second‐hand clothing in designer Maroussia Rebecq’s sustainable dialect.

If you need to fortify yourself with some Mexican snacks or even a post-shopping cocktail, Candelaria is a hole in the wall taqueria and bar on Rue Saintonge. Frequently packed to the rafters, it’s one of the most popular spots in Haut Marais.

Please see below for some of our favorite shops. We encourage you to nip into any boutique or gallery you come across on these streets, each one is out of the ordinary and will allow you to come away with many special treats!




The Collection

Christophe Lemaire


Isabel Marant

April 77

Esprit Vinyle


Corinne Cobson

Other great shops on nearby streets:


Les Prairies de Paris

Zef (kids)


(until the cross street at the Rue des Francs Bourgeois)

Abou d’Abi Bazaar



• I.E. 

Vanessa Bruno



Surface to Air


Paul & Joe Sister


At the intersection of Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue de Bretagne, you’ll be nearing some of the best contemporary art galleries in Paris. The ones listed below are all within a few short minutes walking distance of each other. Stop and take a peek at the always exciting exhibits!

Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac
7 Rue Debelleyme
Ph. 01 42 72 99 00
Hours Tues‐Sat: 10am‐7pm
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin
76 Rue de Turenne
Ph. 01 42 16 79 79
Hours Tues‐Sat 11am-7pm
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

Galerie Chantal Crousel
10, rue Charlot
Ph. 01 42 77 37 87
Hours Tues‐Sat: 11am‐1pm & 2pm‐7pm
Metro: Filles du Calvaire (8)

A bit further down, on nearby Rue Saint Claude and surrounds, you will find a slew of young galleries featuring a terrific selection of emerging contemporary artists:

Galerie Sultana
12 Rue des Arquebusiers
Ph. 01 44 54 08 90
Hours Tues‐Sat 11am‐7pm
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

Galerie Frank Elbaz
66 Rue de Turenne
Ph. 01 48 87 50 04
Hours Tues‐Sat 11am‐7pm
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

Galerie Polaris
15 Rue des Arquebusiers
Ph. 01 42 72 01 27
Hours Tues‐F 1-7pm; Saturday 11am-7pm
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

Emmanuel Perrotin’s majestic secondary space is also located at 10 Impasse Saint Claude.

Though not contemporary art per se, while you are in this area, you might also want to pop into the:

Picasso Museum 
5 Rue de Thorigny
Ph. 01 42 71 25 21
Hours – The museum is currently closed for renovations, due to re-open end of 2013
Metro: Saint-Paul (1), Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

If you’re crazy about art and still have some energy left, take a 20 minute walk in the other direction toward the Centre Georges Pompidou and on your way, go check out:

Galerie Daniel Templon
30 Rue Beaubourg
Ph. 01 42 72 14 10
Hours Mon‐Sat: 10am‐7pm
Metro: Rambuteau (11)

Galerie Anne de Villepoix
43 Rue de Montmorency
Ph. 01 42 78 22 34
Hours Mon‐Sat 10am‐7pm
Metro: Arts et Métiers (3, 11), Rambuteau (11)

Galerie Marion Goodman
79 Rue du Temple
Ph. 04 18 04 70 52
Hours M-F 11am‐7pm
Metro: Rambuteau (11)

Galerie Eva Hober
35-37 Rue Chapon
Ph. 01 48 04 78 69
Hours Tues‐Sat 11am‐7pm
Metro: Rambuteau (11), Arts et Métiers (3, 11)

Also in the more south part you can find the Musée Carnavalet, a small museum located in a beautiful residence (Hotel Particulier) and showing the history of Paris.

Hôtel Carnavalet
23 Rue de Sévigné
Ph. 01 44 59 58 58
Hours Tues-Sun 10am-6pm
Metro Rambuteau (3, 11), Saint-Paul (1)


Okay, now you’re exhausted and starving! Good news though, you’re only a stone’s throw from some of the hippest cafés in Paris:

Le Progrés
1 Rue de Bretagne
Ph. 01 42 72 01 44
Hours M-Sat 8am-2am
Metro: Filles du Calvaire (8)

La Perle
78 Rue Vieille du Temple
Ph. 01 72 69 93
Hours M-Sun 6.30am-2am
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8), Rambuteau (11), Chemin Vert (5)

Cafe Charlot
38 Rue de Bretagne
Ph. 01 44 54 03 30
Hours M-Sun 7am-2am
Metro: Filles du Calvaire (8)

Le Mary Celeste
3 Rue Commines
Hours M-F 6pm-2am, Sat & Sun 12pm-2am
Metro: Saint-Sébastian – Froissart (8)

Le Progrés, the cafe which has long been the preferred place for the local artists, art dealers and fashionistas, still retains a portion of its deliberately scruffy clientele, but has been somewhat overshadowed by a new bastion of BoBo (Bourgeois Bohemian) chic, the Cafe Charlot. The hipster insanity really reaches a fever pitch at La Perle, where by 7pm most evenings, the gorgeously disheveled crowd spills out into the street, creating what amount to nightly “happenings”.

Le Mary Celeste is a recently opened wine, cocktail and oyster bar. Try interesting fusion snacks featuring unusual flavour combinations, a range of fresh, locally sourced oysters and a great wine selection.

Pick any one of the cafés to relax and end your day. If you’re alone, bring a book, doesn’t matter which one, you won’t be reading, like Karl over his fan, you’ll be surreptitiously peering over it, to check out one of the best impromptu fashion shows in town.

The Haut Marais: trés cool, trust us.


Centre Culturel Suisse

The Suisse Cultural Center (Centre Culturel Suisse) is one of the best central locations (in the heart of the Marais) to see unique contemporary art exhibitions. Featuring artists working in forms such as installation, sculpture,… Read more

Goumanyat & Son Royaume

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Jean-Paul Hevin – Chocolatier

One of Paris’ top chocolatiers, JP Hevin’s signature store on the rue Saint Honoré, also has a sophisticated Salon de Thé, which is great for a lunch entre copînes, it’s not too expensive. With additional boutiques… Read more

Florence Loewy Books by Artists

A gallery and bookshop dedicated to the documentation of the artistic pursuit. Besides the programme of exhibitions, you’ll find a treasure trove of books and videos from an extensive collection of French and foreign artists.… Read more


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Vide Greniers and Brocantes in Paris

This is a type of French garage sale (or car boot/jumble sale if you’re British)– the phrase vide grenier means”attic clearance”.  Read more

Paris Libraries

Image: Matthew Black My world expanded somewhat when I found out about Paris’s libraries. And all for free. There are even specialist Libraries in different arrondissement – 1er Music, 4eme Fine Arts, Graphic Arts, History of… Read more