The 17th arrondissement is best known for the up and coming neighborhood of the Batignolles. Parisians are drawn to the Batignolles by the promise of a small town atmosphere and, very importantly, no tourists.
Swathes of industrial areas were recently transformed into green expanses for sport and recreation. Impressionism was born in the neighborhood’s cafés thanks to the regular patronage of Manet, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, and Renoir. Literary legends Zola, Verlaine, and Eluard also called the quartier home. Bordered by picturesque English gardens, colorful markets and some of the best fine dining Paris has to offer, Batignolles is ideal for a lazy afternoon of bohemian daydreaming.
Start your day at the trendy and comfortable Café Lacombe. From Metro Ternes (line 2), walk up the Avenue de Ternes. Turn left on the Rue des Acacias and find Café Lacombe at number 55. The café offers free wifi and mouth‐watering desserts and pastries.
Next, double back down the Avenue des Ternes and turn left on the Rue Poncelet. The markets on Rue Poncelet are among the most celebrated in the city. The adorable pedestrian street showcases plentiful, orderly and colorful goods.Read more
The 17th arrondissement is more or less divided into two main areas; one which surrounds Ternes Metro and the area around Parc Clichy‐Batignolles and metro Brochant.
To reach the latter area, either take a long hike up the Boulevard Courcelles and the border of the Parc Monceau until metro Villiers (2), or simply take the metro (2) until Villiers.
From metro Villiers, grab a snack at La Petite Rose bakery. Japanese pastry chef Miyuki Watanabe heads the picture‐perfect tea salon. Among the delectable house specialties, try the tablette mendiante. The «candy bar» is an earthy and bittersweet combination of caramelized hazelnuts, almonds and pistachios.
From La Petite Rose, swing by the hip café and bar 3 Pièces Cuisine for a laid back lunch or drink. Walk up the Boulevard des Batignolles turning left on Rue de Chéroy.
Trek up the Rue de Rome towards the outer edges of the 17th. Turn right on Rue Cardinet and stumble across lovely Square de Batignolles. An English garden in the far reaches of the 17th, the garden is complete with a grotto, black swans, a waterfall and a pond. The small park is ideal spot to relax or let the kids run amok. Another kid‐friendly area is the Parc Clichy Batignolles Martin Luther King also situated along the Rue Cardinet. With skateboarding areas, basketball courts, and soccer/football fields, the green former railroad yard is ideal for recreational activities.
(On the southern end of the park is the Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church, the historic center of Batignolles.)
Plan to have lunch at the Institut Vatel for a special treat. The French culinary school offers four‐course prix-fixe lunch and dinner during the week for only 20‐35 euros. The Institut Vatel is located just off the Rue Cardinet on Rue Nollet. Reservations are required to participate.
From the Parc Clichy‐Batignolles, continue on the Rue Cadinet until the Avenue Cardinet until the Avenue de Clichy. Make a right turn onto the avenue then a quick left onto the Cité des Fleurs. Walk off the rude and crude Avenue de Clichy to the tranquil Cité des Fleurs. Enjoy a moment on a wee country lane and be transported away from the noisy city,
Rejoin the fracas of Clichy and walk down the avenue towards the metro Brochant. Turning right on Rue des Moines, you’ll find great organic market every Saturday from 9am‐2pm at the intersection of Rue Lemercier.
Across the street Rue Lemercier is the celebrated shop Atao, La Dame aux Huitres. which serves up fresh oysters and shellfish to take away or stay for an afternoon pick‐me‐up.
Make a pit stop at the eccentric art gallery and boutique French Touche. Follow Rue Lemercier and turn left on Rue Jacquemont. French Touche specializes in whimsical trinkets and custom‐made brooches, and is a delight even for the guys.
Bring your Batignolles experience to a close with a dinner reservation at one of the fantastic restaurants in the Ternes area. For three‐starred Michelin dining, Guy Savoy is one of the kings of the scene. Savoy is the crème-de-la-crème with exceptional service plus expertly crafted fine cuisine. The Chef is a living culinary legend. For a similarly flawless dining experience visit Frédéric Simonin on Rue Bayen. Alternatively, Restaurant Caius throws contemporary twists on French Bistro classics. The bistro serves simple, good, affordable French staples like boudin noir and steak tartare alongside wild cards like polenta fries.
For happy hour, hit up 3 Pièces Cuisine and Café Lacombe. Champagne bubbles in a speakeasy vibe? Welcome to Flûte Bar. Choose from over one hundred varieties of champagne while lounging to music imported direct from New York City.
Batignolles and the 17th arrondissement’s soothing parks and diversions are the remedy for over‐stimulated Parisian living. Think of an afternoon in the Batignolles as a spa day for the soul and stomach.
3 Pièces Cuisine
101 rue des Dames
Ph. 01 44 90 85 10
Hours 7/7 M‐F 8am‐2am, Sat 9am-2am, ‐Sun 9am‐12am
Metro: Rome (2)
25 rue Bayen
Ph. 01 45 74 74 74
Hours M-Sat 12-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm
Metro: Ternes (2)
18 rue Troyon
Ph. 01 43 80 40 61
Hours: Tues-Sat 12-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm Closed Sunday and Monday, August and 1 week at Christmas. No lunch on Saturday.
Metro: Charles‐de‐Gaulle‐Etoile (1,2,6, RER A)
6 rue d’Armaillé.
Ph. 01 44 09 05 10
Hours Mon‐Sat lunch and dinner
Metro: Argentine, Etoile (1,2,6, RER A)
A thimble‐like bistro serving simple yet affordable French staples along side polenta fries.
La Petite Rose
11 boulevard des Courcelles
Ph. 01 45 22 07 27
Hours Thurs‐Tues 10am‐ 7pm
Metro: Villers (2)
Picture‐perfect salon headed by Japanese chef Miyuki Watanabe. Among the delectable house specialties try the tablette mendiant.
122 rue Nollet
Ph. 01 42 26 26 60
Hours Mon‐Fri lunch and dinner
Metro: Brochant (13)
19 rue de l’Etoile
Ph. 01 45 71 10 14
Hours Tues‐Sat 5pm‐2am
Metro: Ternes (2)
Champagne bubbles in a speakeasy vibe? Welcome to Flûte Bar.
1 rue Jacquemont
Ph. 01 42 63 31 36
Hours Tues‐Fri 1‐8pm, Sat 11am‐8pm
Metro: La Forche (13)
Touchable art gallery and boutique featuring trinkets and made‐to‐order whimsical brooches.
10 rue Poncelet
Ph. 01 48 88 98 07
Hours Tues‐Sun 8am‐1pm, 4pm‐7:30pm
Metro: Ternes (2)
Ranked one of the best markets in town alongside the rue Montorgueil and the rue de Seine.
Cité des Fleurs
154 avenue de Clichy
Hours Mon‐Sat 7am‐7pm, Sun 7am‐1pm
Metro: Brochant (13)
Walk off the rude and crude avenue de Clichy to the tranquil Cité des Fleurs . Enjoy a minute on a wee country lane and be transported away from the noisy city.
Words: Jill Pope Image: Timothy Mason Batignolles in the 17th arrondissement used to sit outside the Paris city limits and the neighbourhood has retained the village-like lifestyle with cute boutiques, leafy streets and a local… Read more
Words: Jill Pope Perhaps it’s not technically a market, but the pedestrian thoroughfare near Villiers metro situated amongst the subdued chic of the 17th arrondissement definitely has a village feel. Weave amongst young families, nannies… Read more
Text: Ana Lee Luxury depot vente (second hand shop) in the 17th above Parc Monceau. Here you’ll find last season’s Chloe bags, Dior ties (at 40 euros), and exceptional vintage Chanel jewelry. Used designer clothing… Read more
The saying goes: “Never eat oysters in a month without an ‘R’ in it.” or as P.J. O’Rourke put it “Never serve oysters in a month that has no paycheck in it.” When you have… Read more
This is a type of French garage sale (or car boot/jumble sale if you’re British)– the phrase vide grenier means”attic clearance”. Read more