7th Arrondissement

Eiffel Tower, Invalides

The elegant 7th arrondissement can be divided into two areas: the Eiffel TowerInvalides/Ecole Militaire and the Rue du Bac. The dignified hotels particuliers house ministries, embassies, and luxurious private residences. The 7th is rich with art and culture, as well as the upper crust of society. Stately, subdued, and refined, the 7eme arrondissement seduces with Napoleonic sophistication.

The Rue du Bac runs North to South and focuses on gourmet foodstuffs, posh boutiques, and independent galleries. The expansive Eiffel Tower‐Invalides area features a variety of upscale restaurants and museums for almost every taste.

First things first. Begin at the Eiffel Tower on the Champs de Mars (metro Ecole Militaire, line 8). Arrive early in the day to avoid the throngs of tourists. Be sure to take in the view and the beautiful Champs de Mars – or Field of Mars – gardens. Its name is a reference to the neighborhood’s military history.

Military and history buffs will appreciate viewing the tomb of the great little man, Napoléon, in the Invalides. Adjacent there is the Ecole Militaire housing military training facilities and a museum. Occasionally the cavalry parades around Invalides in full regalia, simply for practice. Both are open to the public.

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From the Ecole Militaire metro station, head northeast on Avenue La Motte Piquet making a left turn onto Rue Cler. Amble the well‐known market street and have un café at the Café du Marché – a locals’ spot to gossip and lunch. Continuing on Rue Cler, turn right onto Rue de Grenelle. The Rue de Grenelle is the main thoroughfare of the 7th arrondissement. It crosses the stunning Esplanade des Invalides to the silent government ministries and onward to bustling Rue du Bac. Turning right on the Boulevard des Invalides leads to the beloved Musée Rodin sculpture museum, featuring the works of Auguste Rodin and his protégée (and lover) Camille Claudel.

The Rue de Grenelle and surrounds is dotted with shops of quintessentially French infant and toddler wear. Noro on Rue de Varenne is a wee fairytale that stops shoppers in their tracks. Anyone can find an excuse to pop a head in. Bonton is another charming line with multiple boutiques in the area.

At last, the Rue du Bac!

Turning right onto the Rue du Bac, immediately across the street is Ryst-Dupeyron. Ryst‐Dupeyron is one of the oldest Armagnac houses, and the Chateau Dupeyron is still family owned. Continue up the street to number 79. Entering the Pâtisserie des Rèves is not unlike crossing the velvet rope of a nightclub. The see‐and‐be seen pastry shop boasts the best hazelnut and puff pastry Paris Brest in town.

For lunch or a midday treat, Le Bac à Glaces is a combination crêperie and ice‐cream parlor. All‐natural and respectably decadent homemade ice cream and sorbet have center stage. Sit down with a crêpe and dessert, or take away a cone.

For your final exploration of the delights of the 7th, turn off Rue du Bac, find your way to Boulevard Raspail and turn left up the Rue de Sèvres. Like a beacon in the night, Le Bon Marché appears at number 38. Shoppers will be bewitched by her size and stunning array of luxury apparel and products. The department store’s displays are legendary. Head to the top floor to discover a revolving installation of the latest fashion trends. Trust us, you will be transported.

Next, exit Le Bon Marché and continue north up the Boulevard Raspail. A wonderful pastry shop, Hugo & Victor, is at number 48. Take the lychee millefeuille to go and enjoy on a park bench!

At the intersection of Boulevard Saint‐Germain and Boulevard Raspail, turn right. Then turn left on the Rue des Saints Pères. Marie Antoinette would have gone head over feet for Debauve & Gallais chocolates (at 30 Rue des Saints‐Pères). The official royal chocolatier, Debauve & Gallais provided decadent bonbons to the Royal Courts of King Louis XVIII, Charles X, and Louis‐Philippe.

CULTURE

Musée Rodin
77 Rue de Varenne
Ph. 01 44 18 61 10
Hours Tues‐Sun 10am‐5.45pm
Metro: Varenne (13)

A Parisian favorite. A lovely garden and manse showcase the works of Auguste Rodin and his protégée (and lover) Camille Claudel.

Musée Maillol
61 Rue de Grenelle
Ph. 01 42 22 59 58
Hours 7/7 10:30am‐7pm (Friday until 9.30pm)
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

Musée Maillol’s permanent collection includes Degas and Cézanne, plus bold exhibits on Basquiat, Damien Hirst and others.

Musée Quai Branly
37 Quai Branly
Ph. 01 56 61 70 00
Hours Tues, W, Sun 11am‐7pm; Th, F, Sat 11am‐9pm
Metro: Pont de l’Alma (RER C)

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, the anthropological Musée Quai Branly exhibits art and cultural artefacts from Africa, Americas, Asia, and Oceania.

Institut Culturel Italien
73 Rue de Grenelle
Ph. 01 44 39 49 39
Hours M‐F 10am‐1pm, 3‐6pm
Metro: Sévres‐Babylone (10, 12)

Carré Rive Gauche
Quai Voltaire ‐ Rue du Bac ‐ Rue de l’Universite ‐ Rue des Saints Pères
Ph. n/a
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

A perfect square jammed with fine art and antique galleries. Look for the blue, white, black, and grey flags signaling the participating galleries.

Invalides (Musée de l’Armée)
129 Rue de Grenelle
Ph. 08 10 11 33 99
Hours 7/7 10am-5pm (until 6pm April-October)
Metro: Ecole Militaire (8)

Military and history buffs will appreciate viewing the tomb of the great little man, Napoléon, in the Invalides.

RESTAURANTS & CAFES

Les Cocottes
135 Rue Saint‐Dominique
No reservations
Hours 7/7 12-3pm, 6.30-10.30pm
Metro: Pont de l’Alma (RER C)

Le Bac à Glaces
109 rue du Bac
Ph. 01 45 48 87 65
Hours M-F 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-7.30pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

All‐natural and respectably decadent house made ice cream and sorbet. Sit down with a crêpe and dessert, or take away a cone.

Pâtisserie des Rèves
93 Rue du Bac
Ph. 01 42 84 00 82
Hours M‐Sat 9am‐8pm, Sun 9am‐6pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

Entering the Pâtisserie des Rèves is not unlike crossing the velvet rope of a nightclub. The see‐and‐be seen pastry shop boasts the best hazelnut and puff pastry Paris Brest in town.

Caffé Toscano
34 Rue des Saints Pères
Ph. 01 42 84 28 95
Hours M‐Sun 12‐2.30pm, 7.30‐10.30pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

Excellent Italian food with a French bistro accent.

Chez l’Ami Jean
27 Rue Malar
Ph. 01 47 05 86 89
Hours Tue‐Sat 12-2.30pm, 7pm-midnight
Metro: La Tour Mauberg (8)

Basque‐style cuisine with regional reminders peppering the décor like Espelettes. Worth a trip for the rollicking experience and cuisine by chef Stephane Jégo.

Deyrolle
46 Rue du Bac
Ph. 01 42 22 32 21
Hours M 10am-1pm, 2pm-7pm, Tues-Sat 10am-7pm (Monday hours through August)
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

Noro
4-6 Rue de Varenne
Ph. 01 45 49 19 88
Hours M-Sat 11am-7pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

A wee fairytale that stops shoppers in their tracks with classically French infants and toddlers apparel and accessories. Anyone can find an excuse to pop a head in.

Bonton
82 Rue de Grenelle
Ph. 01 44 39 09 20
Hours M-Sat 10am-7pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

A little bit of sugar and spice makes everything nice at Bon Ton. The sizeable boutique stocks adorable and affordable (for Parisian standards) infant to toddler wear.

Ryst-Dupeyron
79 Rue du Bac
Ph. 01 45 48 80 93
Hours M 12‐7.30pm, Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

Ryst‐Dupeyron is one of the oldest Armagnac houses, and the Chateau Dupeyron is still family owned. The boutique offers antique Armagnacs on the Rue du Bac.

Fromagerie Barthélémy
51 rue de Grenelle
Ph. 01 42 22 82 24
Hours T‐Sat 8:30am‐1pm, 4‐7:15pm
Metro: Rue du Bac (12)

Master cheese maker Roland Barthelemy ascribes to the quality over quantity philosophy, in his products and in his tiny Rue du Bac fromagerie. His cheeses are aged to perfection and always seasonally appropriate.

Debauve & Gallais
30 Rue des Saints‐Pères
Ph. 01 45 48 54 67
Hours M‐Sat 9am‐7pm
Metro: Saint-Germain des Prés (4)

Hugo & Victor
40 Boulevard Raspail
Ph. 01 44 39 97 73
Hours M-W 9am-7pm, F-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 10-
Metro: Sèvres‐Babylone (10)

Le Bon Marché
24 Rue de Sèvres
Ph. 01 44 39 80 00
M‐Sat 10am‐8pm, Th‐F 10am‐9pm
Metro: Sévres‐Babylone (10,12)

Flat out one of the most beautiful department stores in the world. An antidote to the swarming crowds on the Rive Droite. Find something for everyone

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