It’s almost 8h and you still have to catch the métro into Châtelet. Normally you wouldn’t worry because the ride is only 25 minutes — du coup you might have to add an extra 15 minutes, but you never count them. Mostly because you stop at the tabac for a packet of Gitanes (Gauloises if it’s sunny outside) and a croissant aux amandes. You may not be rich but you can treat yourself. There is no better breakfast than bread and a smoke. The stomach can’t handle more at that hour. Voilà quoi! There’s nothing to it. You get up, you go to work, you come home, you feed the kids, bref, you know what I mean. You’re a parigot tête de veau. Or at least both your potes make fun of you for that. But whatever, they’re the same as you. You grew up together. En fait, they’re practically like family, or at least good friends who appreciate the classics like you do. PSG isn’t doing so good, but you’re from Paris, what else are you supposed to do? Putain mec! C’est claire, fin, tu vois? Win or lose, you listen to Piaf after every game over drinks at Aux Folies and non, tu ne regrettes rien.
Text: Sara Waldron Tucked away in northeastern Paris’ Ménilmontant neighbourhood is the Musée d’Edith Piaf, a small, unassuming collection of mementos of the singer’s life and work. Truly one of the city’s musées insolites,the only thing that hints at its location from the outside is a plaque marked, “Les Amis de Piaf,” an association that… Read more
Words: Jill Pope The Marais, which spans the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, is far from a homogenous bloc, but a collection of neighbourhoods with their own character. The eastern part of the 4th arrondissement – that is, the ‘lower’ part of the Marais, with its feet still firmly on the rive droit, before you hit the Seine and the… Read more
With Emile Zola’s ‘belly of Paris’, Les Halles, reduced to a grim, labyrinthine shopping complex and a hunk of land permanently ‘under construction’, Parisians were in need of another market standard. Thus Marché d’Aligre, situated near metro Ledru-Rollin in the 12th arrondissement, has taken over and been nicknamed the ‘little’ belly of Paris. Aligre, which is… Read more
Words: Jill Pope Image: Aurélien Michaud There’s more to the 18th arrondissement than Montmartre and Pigalle! Head north from Sacre Coeur and discover the other side of the ‘butte’ – neighbourhoods like Clignancourt Jules Joffrin, huddled around metro stations Jules Joffrin, Lamarck-Caulaincourt and Marcadet-Poissoniers. In the 15th century, this part of the 18th arrondissement (which at the time… Read more