17th Arrondissement

The 17th arrondissement is more or less divided into two main areas; one which surrounds Ternes Metro and the area around Parc Clichy‐Batignolles and metro Brochant.

To reach the latter area, either take a long hike up the Boulevard Courcelles and the border of the Parc Monceau until metro Villiers (2), or simply take the metro (2) until Villiers.

From metro Villiers, grab a snack at La Petite Rose bakery. Japanese pastry chef Miyuki Watanabe heads the picture‐perfect tea salon. Among the delectable house specialties, try the tablette mendiante. The «candy bar» is an earthy and bittersweet combination of caramelized hazelnuts, almonds and pistachios.

From La Petite Rose, swing by the hip café and bar 3 Pièces Cuisine for a laid back lunch or drink. Walk up the Boulevard des Batignolles turning left on Rue de Chéroy.

Trek up the Rue de Rome towards the outer edges of the 17th. Turn right on Rue Cardinet and stumble across lovely Square de Batignolles. An English garden in the far reaches of the 17th, the garden is complete with a grotto, black swans, a waterfall and a pond. The small park is ideal spot to relax or let the kids run amok. Another kid‐friendly area is the Parc Clichy Batignolles Martin Luther King also situated along the Rue Cardinet. With skateboarding areas, basketball courts, and soccer/football fields, the green former railroad yard is ideal for recreational activities.

(On the southern end of the park is the Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church, the historic center of Batignolles.)

Plan to have lunch at the Institut Vatel for a special treat. The French culinary school offers four‐course prix-fixe lunch and dinner during the week for only 20‐35 euros. The Institut Vatel is located just off the Rue Cardinet on Rue Nollet. Reservations are required to participate.

From the Parc Clichy‐Batignolles, continue on the Rue Cadinet until the Avenue Cardinet until the Avenue de Clichy. Make a right turn onto the avenue then a quick left onto the Cité des Fleurs. Walk off the rude and crude Avenue de Clichy to the tranquil Cité des Fleurs. Enjoy a moment on a wee country lane and be transported away from the noisy city,

Rejoin the fracas of Clichy and walk down the avenue towards the metro Brochant. Turning right on Rue des Moines, you’ll find great organic market every Saturday from 9am‐2pm at the intersection of Rue Lemercier.

Across the street Rue Lemercier is the celebrated shop Atao, La Dame aux Huitres. which serves up fresh oysters and shellfish to take away or stay for an afternoon pick‐me‐up.

Make a pit stop at the eccentric art gallery and boutique French Touche. Follow Rue Lemercier and turn left on Rue Jacquemont. French Touche specializes in whimsical trinkets and custom‐made brooches, and is a delight even for the guys.

Bring your Batignolles experience to a close with a dinner reservation at one of the fantastic restaurants in the Ternes area. For three‐starred Michelin dining, Guy Savoy is one of the kings of the scene. Savoy is the crème-de-la-crème with exceptional service plus expertly crafted fine cuisine. The Chef is a living culinary legend. For a similarly flawless dining experience visit Frédéric Simonin on Rue Bayen. Alternatively, Restaurant Caius throws contemporary twists on French Bistro classics. The bistro serves simple, good, affordable French staples like boudin noir and steak tartare alongside wild cards like polenta fries.

For happy hour, hit up 3 Pièces Cuisine and Café Lacombe. Champagne bubbles in a speakeasy vibe? Welcome to Flûte Bar. Choose from over one hundred varieties of champagne while lounging to music imported direct from New York City.

Batignolles and the 17th arrondissement’s soothing parks and diversions are the remedy for over‐stimulated Parisian living. Think of an afternoon in the Batignolles as a spa day for the soul and stomach.

RESTAURANTS

3 Pièces Cuisine
101 rue des Dames
Ph. 01 44 90 85 10
Hours 7/7 M‐F 8am‐2am, Sat 9am-2am, ‐Sun 9am‐12am
Metro: Rome (2)

Frédéric Simonin
25 rue Bayen
Ph. 01 45 74 74 74
Hours M-Sat 12-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm
Metro: Ternes (2)

Guy Savoy
18 rue Troyon
Ph. 01 43 80 40 61
Hours: Tues-Sat 12-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm Closed Sunday and Monday, August and 1 week at Christmas. No lunch on Saturday.
Metro: Charles‐de‐Gaulle‐Etoile (1,2,6, RER A)

Restaurant Caius
6 rue d’Armaillé.
Ph. 01 44 09 05 10
Hours Mon‐Sat lunch and dinner
Metro: Argentine, Etoile (1,2,6, RER A)

A thimble‐like bistro serving simple yet affordable French staples along side polenta fries.

La Petite Rose
11 boulevard des Courcelles
Ph. 01 45 22 07 27
Hours Thurs‐Tues 10am‐ 7pm
Metro: Villers (2)

Picture‐perfect salon headed by Japanese chef Miyuki Watanabe. Among the delectable house specialties try the tablette mendiant.

Institut Vatel
122 rue Nollet
Ph. 01 42 26 26 60
Hours Mon‐Fri lunch and dinner
Metro: Brochant (13)

Flûte Bar
19 rue de l’Etoile
Ph. 01 45 71 10 14
Hours Tues‐Sat 5pm‐2am
Metro: Ternes (2)

Champagne bubbles in a speakeasy vibe? Welcome to Flûte Bar.

SHOPPING

French Touche
1 rue Jacquemont
Ph. 01 42 63 31 36
Hours Tues‐Fri 1‐8pm, Sat 11am‐8pm
Metro: La Forche (13)

Touchable art gallery and boutique featuring trinkets and made‐to‐order whimsical brooches.

Marché Poncelet
10 rue Poncelet
Ph. 01 48 88 98 07
Hours Tues‐Sun 8am‐1pm, 4pm‐7:30pm
Metro: Ternes (2)

Ranked one of the best markets in town alongside the rue Montorgueil and the rue de Seine.

CULTURE

Cité des Fleurs
154 avenue de Clichy
Hours Mon‐Sat 7am‐7pm, Sun 7am‐1pm
Metro: Brochant (13)

Walk off the rude and crude avenue de Clichy to the tranquil Cité des Fleurs . Enjoy a minute on a wee country lane and be transported away from the noisy city.

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