18th Arrondissement


Montmartre. The name evokes disheveled, bohemian, bacchanalian fin de siècle carousing, twisting crawling streets, the legendary Moulin Rouge and, lest we forget, Amélie Poulain. Parisians revile Montmartre as much as they cherish the mysterious hill in northern Paris. For a relatively small arrondissement, the 18th is arguably the most notorious, but over the last few years many interesting places to eat and drink have started to fill its winding rues.

Tourists flood the path from Pigalle and the Boulevard de Clichy to the Sacré Coeur. During high season, there is nary a slim passageway without a camera‐toting visitor. Off the beaten track, however, village life in Montmartre survives – though La Butte has requirements. Sturdy walking shoes and healthy climbing lungs are two of them. Explore away from the obvious attractions and you’ll glimpse the absinthe‐soaked spectre of old Montmartre.

Skip the trek uphill to Sacré Coeur from Anvers and begin your adventure from metro Abbesses. The tree‐filled little square is the residential heart of Montmartre. Start your walk with a jolt of café. Walk downhill on Rue Yvonne Le Tac and spot the Au Progrès café on the corner of Rue des Trois Frères. The 19th century‐style café is encased in polished glass ‐ perfect for people watching.

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Across the street on Rue Tardieu is the lighting boutique La Case de Cousin Paul, selling mix‐and‐match globes of tightly wound thread strung on white outdoor lights. When lit, the effect is fetching and the glowing globes can be found in almost every apartment in Paris.

Peek down the street and you’ll realize that you are at the foot of Sacré Coeur. Although it is a tourist trap to be sure, the view from the top of the hill is breathtaking. Watch out for pickpockets!

To visit Sacré Coeur’s neighbor, the Place du Tertre, from a charming – and steep ‐ angle, continue up the Rue des Trois Frères from the Au Progrès. Kilimanjaro‐esque steps appear on the right. On the left is the shopping oasis Rue de La Vieuville where you can find the boutiques Spree and Make My D.

Step gingerly over the remains of last night’s revelry and up the stairs. At the top, turn left onto Rue Berthe. The path will take you to the little Place Gustave-Toulouse that was an artists’ enclave until the 1970s. Follow Rue Ravignan to the Rue Gabrielle. Tripping along the unpaved street, find the next steps up to Place du Tertre on the left. Climb!

At last! The Place du Tertre. Check out the earnest but dodgy painters and their wares. In the northwest corner of the square, walk down the Rue Norvins. Turn right on the small Rue des Saules. This is one of the most picturesque streets in Montmartre. Whip out the camera and snap a few shots.

Following Rue Saules, turn right on Rue Cortot until the Musée de Montmartre. This romantic little museum has seen its share of difficulties, and was a hair’s breadth from closing in 2009. Learn about the torrid history of La Butte; from the cabaret singer La Goulue, to the Moulin Rouge, and the artists whose ateliers contributed to the legend – Modigliani and Toulouse‐Lautrec, among them.

There is one working vineyard in Paris and it is in Montmartre. From the Musée de Montmartre, head back towards the Rue de Saules and turn right downhill. On the corner of Rue Saint-Vincent, the Clos de Montmartre appears. Planted in 1933, the vineyard has a yearly harvest (vendage) and celebration in mid‐October. Adjacent to the Clos de Montmartre is a secret garden. The Jardin Sauvage Saint-Vincent is only open on Saturdays and is mercifully off the radar.

Follow the Rue Saint‐Vincent until the curve in the street. The path and stairway to the left lead to Place Dalida. The name doesn’t ring a bell? Dalida was an Italian‐Egyptian singer who became a national and gay icon in the 1960s and 70s. The Place Dalida has a sensual bust of the beautiful performer, whose life was sadly cut short. She is buried in Père Lachaise cemetery.

Leave the Place Dalida and continue on the Rue Girardon. At the end of the street is the famous Moulin de la Galette. The windmill or moulin is an original relic of the old mill. In the early 1900s the Moulin de la Galette was an absinthe‐fueled cabaret. Usual suspects included Toulouse‐Lautrec and the dancehall was the subject of Auguste Renoir’s painting of the same name. Today the Moulin is a white‐tablecloth dining establishment garnering solid reviews.

From the Moulin turn right down Rue Lepic. Wrap around Rue Lepic until reaching the liveliest local’s hangout in Montmartre. Called «Abbesses» after the nearby metro station, it is packed with cafés and eateries. Un Zebre à Montmartre is a decent and funky place to grab a bite after descending the Butte.

The Cimetière de Montmartre is easily accessible from the Rue des Abbesses. Less touristic than its counterparts Père Lachaise and Montparnasse, under a thick canopy of trees, the Cimetière de Montmartre is the tranquil resting place of François Truffaut, Edgar Degas and Hector Berlioz. Use the entrance on Avenue Rachel under the Rue Caulaincourt, walking west on Rue des Abbesses/Rue Joseph de Maistre.

Exit on Avenue Rachel and walk south towards Boulevard de Clichy, clearly landmarked by its red lights and strip clubs.

Turn left down the Boulevard, and then left on the tiny Cité du Midi. The Box at number 6, is an underground contemporary art gallery in the vine‐covered alleyway, hiding from the sex shops and pay‐per-hour hotels. Chez Grace is another underground gallery at 46 Rue des Abbesses. Popular in art circles, Chez Grace hosts several shows throughout the year, all displayed on her blog.

More excellent shopping can be found on Rue des Gardes, and especially behind the Sacré Coeur. Take a French test at A.P.C. Surplus. Next to a dry grotto, the understated and appropriately moody hidden boutique is the French‐girl litmus test of cool. Also in the area are the café Au Soleil de la Butte and its splendid terrace, the quirky Paris‐only boutique Atypyk, and deliciously funky vintage clothing at La Caverne à Fripes on Rue Houdon.

Nightlife in Montmartre kicks it up a notch. There is something for everyone. Seedy though the quartier seems, it has become home to some of the best‐reviewed restaurants in Paris.

Exhibit A ‐ excellent Japanese food at Guilo Guilo on Rue Garreau. Exhibit B – Chéri Bibi (across from A.P.C Surplus) is a very dainty name for a place serving hearty French comfort food in a retro‐cool atmosphere. Finally, for your consideration, Le Miroir on Rue des Martyrs. Le Miroir swings towards the refined end of the spectrum of bistro cuisine, and the critics back it up.

For more French fare two new and exciting spots have opened on Rue Eugène Sue. Bistro La Table d’Eugène serves hearty French classics with nuanced contemporary twists, while neighbouring La Rallonge is a wine bar headed by the same team. Sample smaller plates of charcuterie and tapas style food matched with their selection of natural wines by the glass or bottle.

For some of the best and most authentic Italian food in the city of light you can’t go wrong with the pizza at Il Brigante, on Rue de Ruisseau, or trattoria Pucinella on Rue Damrémont (they also have another venue on Rue Eugène Sue).

Still looking for the spirit of Modigliani? Dive bar Chez Camille, speakeasy wine bar Les Caves des Abbesses, and concert halls and dance clubs Elysée Montmartre and La Cigale keep hedonism alive and well lubricated in Montmartre.


Au Soleil de la Butte
32 Rue Muller
Ph. 01 46 06 18 24
Hours Mon-Thurs 9am‐2am, Sat, Sun 9am-6am
Metro: Chateau Rouge (4)

Wide corner terrace facing some of the famous steps of Montmartre.

Au Progrès
7 Rue des Trois Frères
Ph. 01 42 64 07 17
Hours 7/7 9:30am‐2am
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Les Caves des Abbesses
43 Rue des Abbesses
Ph. 01 42 52 81 54
Hours Tues‐F 5‐10.30pm, Sat‐Sun 12‐10.30pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Chéri Bibi
15 Rue André Del Sarte
Ph. 01 42 54 88 96
Hours M‐Sat 8pm‐12am, Sun 12pm‐4pm
Metro: Château Rouge (4)

Guilo Guilo
8 Rue Garreau
Ph. 01 42 54 23 92
Hours T‐Sun 7pm‐11pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Les Deux Moulins
15 Rue Lepic
Ph. 01 42 54 90 50
Hours 7/7 7am‐2am
Metro: Blanche (2)

Location of the love triangles in Amélie Poulain.

Le Miroir
94 Rue des Martyrs
Ph. 01 46 06 50 73
Hours T‐Sat 12‐3pm, 7.30‐10pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Il Brigante
17 Rue de Ruisseau
Ph. 01 44 92 72 15
Hours Mon-Sat 12-2pm, 7.30-11pm
Metro: Jules Joffrin (12), Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)

17 Rue Damrémont
Ph. 01 46 06 46 94
Hours 7/7 12-3pm, 7pm-12am
Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)

La Table d’Eugène
18 Rue Eugène Sue
Ph. 01 42 55 61 64
Hours Tues-Sat 12-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm
Metro: Jules Joffrin (12), Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)

La Rallonge
16 Rue Eugène Sue
Ph. 01 42 59 43 24
Hours 7/7 7pm-1am
Metro: Jules Joffrin (12), Lamarck-Caulaincourt (12)

Le Moulin de la Galette
83 Rue Lepic
Ph. 01 46 06 84 77
Hours 7/7 12pm‐11pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Un Zebre à Montmartre
38 Rue Lepic
Ph. 01 42 23 97 80
Hours 7/7 9am‐2am
Metro: Abbesses (12)


A.P.C. Surplus
18 Rue André Del Sarte
Ph. 01 42 62 10 88
Hours Tues-Sun 12.30-7.30pm (winter), 1-8pm (summer)
Metro: Chateau Rouge (4)

Take a French test. Tucked under the Sacré Coeur next to a grotto, the understated and super‐chic A.P.C Stock (that’s discount store, en français). Appropriately moody, the hidden boutique is the French litmus test of cool for men and women.

17 Rue Lambert
Ph. 01 46 06 28 69
Hours By appointment
Metro: Chateau Rouge (4)

La Case de Cousin Paul
4‐6 Rue Tardieu
Ph. 01 55 79 19 41
Hours Tues‐F 10.30am‐7.30pm, Sat 10am‐8pm, Sun 11am‐7pm
Metro: Anvers (2)

La Caverne à Fripes
25 Rue Houdon
Ph. 01 42 52 61 65
Hours M‐Sun 1pm‐9.30pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Le Grenier à Pain
38 Rue des Abbesses
Ph. 01 46 06 41 81
Hours Thurs‐M 7:30am‐8pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Winner of the 2010 Best Baguette in Paris

Make My D
7 Rue de La Vieuville
Ph. 01 44 92 82 98
Hours M 12pm‐7.30pm, T 11pm‐7:30pm, W‐Sat 10.30am‐7.30pm, Sun 12-7.30pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)

Owner Nathalie Bui is the sister of Barbra Bui

Rue des Gardes
Metro: Chateau Rouge (4)

Independent clothing designers have set up shop along the narrow Rue des Gardes.

16 Rue de La Vieuville
Ph. 01 42 23 41 40
Hours M 2‐7pm, T‐Sat 11am‐7:30pm
Metro: Abbesses (12)


Cimetière de Montmartre
Entrance Avenue Rachel under Rue Caulaincourt
Ph. n/a
Hours 16 March‐5 Nov 8am‐6pm, 6 Nov‐15 March 8am‐5:30.
Metro: Blanche (2)

Find the tranquil resting place of François Truffaut, Edgar Degas and Hector Berlioz under a thick canopy of trees.

Elysée Montmartre
72 Boulevard de Rochechouart
Ph. 01 44 92 45 36
Hours Based on performance schedule
Metro: Anvers (2)

Jardin Sauvage Saint Vincent
Rue Saint‐Vincent
Ph. n/a
Hours Saturdays 10am‐12:30pm, 1:30pm‐6:30pm (April‐October) – visits temporarily suspended during renovation works
Metro: Lamarck ‐ Caulaincourt (12)

L’Etoile du Nord
16 Rue Georgette Agutte
Ph. 01 42 26 47 47
Hours M‐F 2pm‐6pm and during performances
Metro: Guy Moquet (13)

La Boule Noire/La Cigale
118 Boulevard Rochechouart
Ph. 01 49 25 89 75
Hours Based on performance schedule
Metro: Pigalle (2)

Le Clos de Montmartre
12 Rue Cortot
Ph. n/a
Hours See website for detailed hours
Metro: Pigalle (2)

Planted in 1933, there are 2,000 vines representing the varieties most frequently grown in France

Le Musée de Montmartre
12 Rue Cortot
Ph. 01 49 25 89 37
Hours 7/7 10am‐6pm
Metro: Lamarck ‐ Caulaincourt (12)

The Box
6 Cité du Midi
Ph. 01 42 51 52 42
Hours Tues‐Sat 3pm‐8pm
Metro: Blanche (2)

Underground contemporary art gallery in a vine-covered alleyway, hiding from the sex shops and pay-per‐ hour hotels on Boulevard Clichy.

Chez Grace
46 Rue des Abbesses
Ph. 01 42 52 85 06

Call or visit the gallery blog for upcoming exhibits.


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