There’s always a friendly welcome in store at Les Foodies
Photos: (C) Les Foodies
Internationally renowned for its thriving restaurant scene, the Marais often leads the way in Paris foodie trends – so we always sit up and take notice when a new place opens its doors. Thus, we were particularly excited about the recent arrival of Les Foodies, located on a picturesque corner of square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, in the 4th arrondissement.
Describing themselves as “the first conceptual néobistrot in Paris combining the freshness of Mediterranean cuisine with Asian influences and gastronomic techniques”, there certainly seems to be a bit of a buzz about this place.
Formed by a group of friends who studied together at the city’s renowned cookery school, Le Cordon Bleu, they were keen to create a modern restaurant that would combine their shared vision – and Les Foodies is the exciting result.
At the helm is chef Davide Galloni, who has both Thai and Italian origins, and seamlessly combines Asian flavours with traditional Italian technicals. Highly experienced, having spent some 15 years cooking across four continents, he practises international gastronomy with his own particular flair. Both young and passionate, he is an adventurous cook who is constantly in search of new culinary experiments.
One of the beautifully presented dishes
The changing seasonal menu should, however, include something for most tastes, with examples including Spring Salad (10€), Fettuccine with Cuttlefish (18€), Penang-style Leg of Guinea Fowl (24€), Grilled Squid (24€) and Cod in Black Crust (28€). Plus, there is also their popular Sunday brunch with three different options – Le Croissant (19€), Le Foodies (22€) and Le Sunday Roast (22€).
All exquisitely presented, the colourful dishes also segue perfectly with the creative decor – which itself combines Parisian, Mediterranean and Asian influences. We also like the inspired touch of the Mondrian-motif squares.
The stylish interior of Les Foodies
In summary then, this recent addition to the Marais looks like a pretty interesting proposition all round. Just be sure to bag a table before everyone else does.
- Les Foodies, 6-8 square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris. Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 12noon-2.30pm and 7.30-11pm; Saturday: 12noon-3pm and 7.30-11pm; Sunday: 12noon-4pm. Tel: +33 (0)9 82 42 73 09
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The founder and CEO of VINGT Paris, Susie Hollands, has lived in Paris since 2003 – during which time she has advised countless clients not only on the best neighbourhoods but also where to enjoy bookshops, theatres and music as well as eating, drinking and shopping. Here she shares a few of her own favourites…
Photos: Alessandro Clemenza
Founder and CEO of VINGT Paris, Susie Hollands, has lived in Paris for over 15 years
1. What initially inspired you to move here or visit?
Art, culture – and the cheese… I was a lifelong Francophile and when I lived in London through the 90’s, I made an annual trip at least to Paris. I also had some good friends through whom I discovered the real French ways!
2. Earliest Paris memory?
Staying at the strange, hippie Hôtel de Nesle on the Left Bank and then heading straight up the tower of Notre-Dame for an Esmerelda eye-view of the city. Eating a Croque Madame at a simple bistro in rue de Seine the evening. Later discovering the outer arrondissements and improving my French, mainly at restaurants and bars.
3. Best neighbourhood you’ve ever lived in?
In 2004, I lived in a small loft in an ex-commercial building in the rue St Nicolas in the 12th. It was close to the Marché d’Aligre where I still shop today. I got to know all the commercants and enjoy the nightlife. It was an easy walk home in the evening from the bars and clubs and the gallery I ran back in the day on rue Keller.
4. What’s the best meal you’ve eaten in Paris?
Too many to mention – but one that stays in my memory is at the brilliant bistro Chez Paul, in rue de Charonne in the 11th, where they serve classic (somewhat heavy) dishes. It was before I moved to France, when those meals were all the more potent because they were not available every day. From what I remember, it followed a very successful day’s racing at Longchamp. On another memorable occasion, at the Hotel Meurice, I was lucky enough to experience a “surrealistic” tasting evening created by Yannick Alleno and that was stunning. Some of the best meals, though, have been simple picnics prepared with the best raw ingredients and sampled on the banks of the Seine with friends, as soon as the nights turn balmy.
5. And your sexiest moment here?
In a Parisian elevator…
6. What do you hate most about living in Paris?
Drivers can be a little aggressive towards pedestrians and Parisians have no “give way” sensor when you walk along narrow pavements.
7. Who’s your favourite Parisian — be they living or dead, real or fictional?
Well, there are a few, so I’ll assemble the cast as a great Parisian dinner party: Baudelaire; Colette and her young chéri; the author, academic and historian, Andrew Hussey OBE; Grace Jones in the 80’s Palace period; author and courtesan Ninon de Lenclos; Nancy Cunard, poet and activist from the 30’s; polymath Boris Vian; and writer and poet André Breton. My chosen venue would be the 17th-century hôtel particulier, Hôtel de Lauzun, on the Île Saint-Louis – chez Baudelaire.
8. Favourite cinema?
The Grand Action in rue des Écoles – it’s a classic, properly old-school cinema with a great selection of films. I also love the open-air cinema at La Villette in the summer.
9. Right Bank or Left Bank? And why?
Right Bank always. It’s where I have lived for most of my time in Paris and it’s where contemporary Paris happens. If you want to experience what Paris is up to these days, you will do well to circle outwards from the place de la République into the 2nd, 9th, 10th, 11th and 20th arrondissements. Here is where you will find the creators, makers, chefs and designers who are on the up and up.
10. Favourite caviste?
Now I abstain, but it used to be La Cave des Papilles in the market street of rue Daguerre in the 14th, accompanied by my friend artist and musician Matthew Rose who would pick the wine. He also introduced me to the world of organic varieties and staying up way too late talking about art.
One of Susie’s favourite ways to spend an evening is enjoying the city’s legendary gastronomic fare
11. Where do you go to escape the city?
I leave Paris about once a month because I have to breathe in the air of nature and other colours and influences Over the years, I headed south, as I love the light in Provence – and, at least once a year, I will have a jaunt to the Riviera. My favourite place is Arles and I usually attend the yearly Rencontres de la Photographie. This Roman town on the banks of the Rhone is a perfect hub for those who like culture but seek the light and soul of Provence, with great galleries, Van Gogh’s foundation and the Roman antiquities museum.
12. Where are the best-looking girls or boys in Paris and why?
Parisians are terribly good-looking wherever you go. And whatever the age. This is uber-evident when you come back to Paris after the holidays. The terrasses of certain cafés: Le Progrès in the Marais on rue de Bretagne for instance; the cafés on rue Montorgueil; oh, and the Grand Epicerie luxury supermarket. Or the Métro.
13. Where do you get your news?
Usually Libération, Le Parisien, The Guardian, the FT Weekend and the Radio Four Today programme. And I try to stay abreast of what the foreign press are reporting on Paris. Business of Fashion is great for the luxury trends and gossip, and Twitter for sport news.
14. Favourite museum?
The Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, in rue des Archives, in the 3rd arrondissement. It’s a really quirky, interesting place full of cabinet de curiosités. I have been numerous times and never tire of it. I love the care and attention to detail; even the banisters of the staircase in wrought iron are a work of art in themselves. I also go often to the Jeu de Paume to see photography and video exhibitions and that museum has remained a constant inspiration for me since I came to live in Paris.
15. Favourite shop?
My bobo heart leads me to Merci where I can go a bit wild in the linen department. I love a whizz around the aforementioned Grand Epicerie for little treats like Bordier butter – and, the spice shop Goumanyat in the Upper Marais. Then Astier de la Villatte is an all-time favourite for ceramics, gifts and presents for myself or special birthday presents.
16. Who’s the most stylish Paris personality?
Ines de la Fressange has got it down, if you ask me. The older people I see in Paris are an inspiration. I like to see the ladies of the 16th out in their vintage YSL and big sunglasses. Also, Betony Vernon is the epitome of old-school Parisian glamour.
17. What is your favourite film set in Paris?
Les Enfants du Paradis by a mile. It’s an exceptional film and very beautiful visually. It was filmed during the occupation and features some of the lost iconic French actors and actresses, notably the indomitable Arletty.
18. What about Paris most inspires you?
The sky, the river and the ghosts…
19. What makes someone a Parisian?
Knowing how to stand up for yourself, flirt to get what you want and not give a f*ck.
20. What’s your favourite French word? (Swear words allowed!)
Amour.
- You can read more about Susie, and her Paris journey, here
The iconic façade of the Lutetia (Photo (c) Mathieu Fiol)
Paris, December 28th, 1910. All Parisian high society is here for the most talked-about event of the year: the grand opening of the Lutetia Hotel. This Art Déco building is mind-blowing, with its stone balconies blending into the façade, harmonically reflecting the cornices, its angels, grapes and lattices, its silver and crystal letters. It is even avant-gardist, with its decorative glass and steam symbolism. Pillars of hot-riveted steel make the foundations, echoing the iconic tower of Gustave Eiffel, who participates as the engineer of the hotel. Louis-Hippolyte Boileau had previously built Le Bon Marché, Paris’s first department store, which is located just across the square from the new building. Beyond the aesthetic coherence of these two landmarks, the idea is to lodge in the hotel the suppliers, customers and aficionados of the store.
The nine-floor splendid structure at the corner of rue de Sèvres and boulevard Raspail claims its crucial role in the City of Light with its name, “Lutetia”, which the Romans used, in ancient times, to call Paris. It soon becomes the number one place to stay in the city, and the centre of the Left Bank’s artistic, literary and intellectual life. A place where Jean-Paul Sartre debates existence over essence with the philosophers, students and teachers of the nearby Sorbonne; where Albert Cohen escapes to write his masterpiece, Belle du Seigneur; and where Ernest Hemingway and the American “lost generation” writers meet for whisky late night, hoping to catch up with Joséphine Baker.
The stunning art deco reception area of the Lutetia (Photo (c) Hotel Lutetia)
Into the war years
As fascism and communism forces dissidents from all around Europe to leave their country and come to Paris, these new immigrants from Germany, Russia, Italy favour their new home city, where they feel free to express their views. When the Second World War starts in 1939, the hotel makes it a priority to accommodate as many refugees as possible. In fact, when German forces bear down on Paris, Charles de Gaulle himself, who had spent his wedding night in the hotel, holes up there for a little while. He escapes with a few residents, while others are captured by the Germans.
In the next twist in its long history, the hotel is requisitioned by the infamous Abwher (counter-espionage agency), favoured by occupation officers and French collaborators for its atmosphere and parties. At the liberation of Paris, in 1944, American and French forces take it back and, on De Gaulle’s order, use it as the main receiving station for concentration camp survivors, who receive medical treatment, identity papers, food and clothing. Many others come there every day, waiting for their beloved ones to appear. While most of them give up after a while – understanding there is no hope anymore – a mother comes one day, seeking her 21-year-old son and insisting he will be arriving soon. A few hours later, Georges Charpak, a Dachau inmate, opens the hotel door. Fifty years after, he would win the Nobel Prize in Physics.
The Lutetia remains this melting-pot place for the rest of the 20th century, with aficionados such as Albert Camus, James Joyce, Samuel Beckett and Juliette Gréco, as well as David Lynch, Serge Gainsbourg, Gérard Depardieu and Catherine Deneuve, amongst others. No wonder it is regarded as such a Parisian icon.
The beautiful bar of the Lutetia (Photo (c) Hotel-Lutetia)
The hotel of today
After closure for a renovation that lasted four years — the first in its long history — the Lutetia is now reopened, refurbished and rethought throughout, though its heritage preserved. “The challenge facing us was to breathe new life into an establishment while respecting its roots, its identity, and its personality,” explains the architect of this Renaissance, the internationally renowned Jean-Michel Wilmotte.
This ambitious renovation, beyond the new layout of the ground floor and the seven new signature suites, is driven by light. For instance, a new interior patio brings more daylight into the building, while offering a charming view of the façade. Then there’s the new state-of-the art spa, stunning indoor swimming pool and the return of locals’ favourite, Brasserie Lutetia, headed up by the three-Michelin-starred chef Gerald Passedat. All of which is only fitting for this Grande Dame of the Left Bank.
As writer and publisher Pierre Assouline, who dedicated a book to the hotel, puts it: “Rarely has the soul of a place been engraved for eternity with its christening name. Beyond the palace, with all it carries of luxury and comfort, beyond the “grand hotel”, with what the expression drives of literary smells, the Lutetia is Paris.”
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